Calvin Klein's New Direction Misses the Mark

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The new Calvin Klein fashion show, held shortly after the premiere of Ryan Murphy's 'Love Story' about the relationship between Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr., missed the mark by moving away from the brand's signature minimalist style that Bessette Kennedy embodied so well. Instead of leaning into the 1990s aesthetic that the show captured, Calvin Klein creative director Veronica Leoni opted for an earlier, less defined era of the brand, resulting in a disjointed collection that lacked the clarity and rigor that defined Calvin Klein's most iconic looks.

Why it matters

Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's style has become a touchstone for 1990s minimalism, and the Calvin Klein brand she worked for and wore so well. By not capitalizing on the renewed interest in that era sparked by the 'Love Story' premiere, Calvin Klein missed an opportunity to reclaim its place as a leader in understated, sophisticated fashion.

The details

Leoni said the brand 'started the season thinking about what's the stereotype of Calvin that everybody knows' but then 'tried to go before that, to the late '70s, early '80s' - a time when the brand was 'less casual, less minimal.' This resulted in a collection that featured experimental elements like backless suiting, billowing gowns, and four-button jackets that lacked the cohesion and clarity that defined Calvin Klein's most iconic looks.

• The first episode of 'Love Story' premiered the night before the Calvin Klein fashion show.
• The Calvin Klein show took place during New York Fashion Week in February 2026.

What they’re saying

What’s next

It remains to be seen if Calvin Klein will be able to recapture the minimalist aesthetic that defined the brand in the 1990s and resonated so strongly with Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.