Pioneering Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

Whittaker, who also led REI as president and CEO, was a lifelong advocate for outdoor adventure and environmental protection.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 11:52am

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A brightly colored, high-contrast silkscreen print of a climbing carabiner or ice axe repeated in a tight grid pattern, capturing the iconic imagery of mountaineering in a bold, abstract style.The iconic gear of mountaineering transformed into vibrant pop art, honoring the legacy of pioneering climber Jim Whittaker.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker was a pioneering mountaineer who helped spark interest in the sport in the U.S. and later served as the president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI. He was also a lifelong advocate for protecting natural spaces and bringing people together through shared challenges in the outdoors.

Why it matters

Whittaker's historic Everest climb and his leadership at REI played a significant role in the growth of the outdoor recreation industry and the conservation movement in the United States. His life and achievements serve as an inspiration for adventurers, environmentalists, and business leaders alike.

The details

Whittaker reached the summit of Everest in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu, becoming the first American to accomplish the feat. His climb came 10 years after the pioneering ascent of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Whittaker's achievement helped spawn interest in mountaineering in the U.S. and made him an instant celebrity. He went on to lead REI from 1971 to 1979, during which time the co-op's membership grew from nearly 250,000 to more than 900,000. Whittaker was also a vocal advocate for environmental protection, testifying before Congress and helping to establish several national parks and wilderness areas.

  • Whittaker summited Everest in 1963.
  • Whittaker led REI as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979.
  • Whittaker died on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963 and a longtime leader of outdoor retailer REI.

Nawang Gombu

Whittaker's climbing partner who summited Everest with him in 1963.

Lloyd Anderson

The co-founder of REI who hired Whittaker in 1955.

Robert Kennedy

The presidential contender who was a close friend of Whittaker's and with whom he climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada.

Lou Whittaker

Jim Whittaker's twin brother, who was also an accomplished mountaineer but opted not to join the 1963 Everest expedition.

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What they’re saying

“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

— Leif Whittaker, Son of Jim Whittaker

“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them.”

— REI

“Jim was a lifelong advocate for peace and believed deeply in the ability of shared challenges in the natural world to unite people across borders and ideologies.”

— Leif Whittaker, Son of Jim Whittaker

“He pulled many a climber up the peak. He did the same for all our spirits. He still does.”

— Jay Inslee, Former Governor of Washington

The takeaway

Jim Whittaker's life and achievements as a pioneering mountaineer, outdoor industry leader, and environmental advocate left an indelible mark on the adventure and conservation movements in the United States. His spirit of exploration, community, and stewardship of the natural world continues to inspire people to this day.