Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mount Everest, Dies at 97

The pioneering mountaineer and outdoor industry leader was a national celebrity after his historic 1963 climb.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 9:20am

Got story updates? Submit your updates here. ›

An abstract, impressionistic photograph showing the faint outline of a hiker against a blurred, dreamlike mountain landscape in warm, earthy tones, conveying a sense of adventure, exploration, and the enduring legacy of a pioneering mountaineer.The pioneering spirit and outdoor legacy of Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, lives on in the adventurous dreams he inspired.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker's successful climb made him a national celebrity, leading to appearances on magazine covers and a Hubbard Medal presentation from President John F. Kennedy. Whittaker also had a long career in the outdoor industry, serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

Why it matters

Whittaker's pioneering ascent of Everest was a landmark achievement that captured the American public's imagination during the height of the Space Race. His life and career also reflected the rise of outdoor recreation and the growth of the outdoor industry in the United States.

The details

On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and his Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu began their ascent of Everest during a storm. At the time, fewer than 10 people had reached the summit. Whittaker's successful climb made him a celebrity, leading to appearances on the covers of National Geographic and Life magazines. President Kennedy presented Whittaker with the Hubbard Medal, the National Geographic Society's highest honor. Whittaker also had a long career in the outdoor industry, serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

  • On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and his Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu began their ascent of Everest.
  • Whittaker reached the summit of Everest in 1963, becoming the first American to do so.
  • In 1965, Whittaker climbed Mount Kennedy in Canada with Robert F. Kennedy.
  • Whittaker died on Tuesday, April 8, 2026, at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, at the age of 97.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, Whittaker became a national celebrity and went on to have a long career in the outdoor industry, including serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

Nawang Gombu

Whittaker's Sherpa guide who accompanied him on the 1963 ascent of Mount Everest.

John F. Kennedy

The President of the United States who presented Whittaker with the Hubbard Medal, the National Geographic Society's highest honor, in recognition of his historic Everest climb.

Robert F. Kennedy

The younger brother of President John F. Kennedy, who climbed Mount Kennedy in Canada with Whittaker in 1965.

Dianne Roberts

Whittaker's wife of 52 years.

Got photos? Submit your photos here. ›

The takeaway

Whittaker's historic ascent of Everest captured the American public's imagination during the Space Race and inspired generations of outdoor enthusiasts. His life and career also reflected the rise of the outdoor industry in the United States.