Pioneering Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

The celebrated climber also led REI as its first full-time employee and president, and was a close friend of Robert Kennedy.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 5:22am

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A high-contrast, brightly colored silkscreen print of a mountaineering carabiner or ice axe repeated in a grid pattern, conceptually representing the adventurous spirit and outdoor advocacy of Jim Whittaker.The vibrant legacy of pioneering mountaineer Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, is celebrated through the iconic imagery of outdoor adventure.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker was a pioneering mountaineer who also served as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of the outdoor retailer REI. He was a close friend of Robert Kennedy and an advocate for protecting the natural world.

Why it matters

Whittaker's historic Everest ascent helped spark interest in mountaineering in the U.S. and made him a celebrity, while his leadership at REI played a key role in the co-op's growth and its advocacy for national parks and wilderness areas. His life embodied the spirit of outdoor adventure and environmental stewardship.

The details

In 1963, Whittaker became the first American to summit Mount Everest, reaching the peak alongside Nawang Gombu. This feat came 10 years after the pioneering climb of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Whittaker had been working at REI since 1955 and went on to lead the company from 1971 to 1979, during which time its membership grew from 250,000 to over 900,000. He was also a close friend of Robert Kennedy and was at his bedside when he was assassinated in 1968.

  • Whittaker summited Mount Everest in 1963.
  • Whittaker led REI from 1971 to 1979.
  • Whittaker was with Robert Kennedy when he was assassinated in 1968.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963 and the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI.

Nawang Gombu

Whittaker's climbing partner who reached the summit of Mount Everest with him in 1963.

Robert Kennedy

A close friend of Whittaker's with whom he climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada, which was later named Mount Kennedy after Kennedy's assassination.

Lou Whittaker

Jim Whittaker's twin brother, who decided to skip the 1963 Everest expedition in favor of opening a sporting goods store.

Dianne Roberts

Jim Whittaker's wife of 52 years.

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What they’re saying

“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

— Leif Whittaker, Jim Whittaker's son

“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them.”

— REI

“Jim was a lifelong advocate for peace and believed deeply in the ability of shared challenges in the natural world to unite people across borders and ideologies.”

— Leif Whittaker, Jim Whittaker's son

What’s next

Jim Whittaker's family is planning a memorial service to celebrate his life and legacy.

The takeaway

Jim Whittaker's pioneering spirit, outdoor advocacy, and commitment to bringing people together through shared experiences in nature left an indelible mark on the mountaineering community, the outdoor industry, and the conservation movement. His life's work continues to inspire adventurers and environmentalists alike.