Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mount Everest, Dies at 97

Whittaker's historic 1963 ascent helped spark interest in mountaineering in the U.S. and led to his long career at REI.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 3:23pm

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A cubist-style painting depicting the iconic image of a mountaineer standing atop a snowy peak, broken down into sharp, overlapping geometric shapes in a range of cool blues and whites.The legendary mountaineer Jim Whittaker's historic first American ascent of Mount Everest in 1963 inspired generations of outdoor enthusiasts.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker's Everest climb made him an instant celebrity and helped grow the outdoor retail company REI, where he served as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979. He was also a lifelong advocate for conservation and peace, leading additional expeditions like the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb.

Why it matters

Whittaker's historic Everest ascent was a landmark achievement that inspired a new generation of American mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts. His leadership at REI also helped the company expand its reach and influence, while his conservation efforts protected iconic natural areas like the North Cascades and Redwood National Park.

The details

In 1963, Whittaker became the first American to summit Mount Everest, reaching the peak alongside Nawang Gombu. His feat came 10 years after the pioneering climb of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Whittaker had been working at REI since 1955 and the company's popularity surged after his Everest climb. He went on to lead REI from 1971 to 1979, growing its membership from 250,000 to over 900,000. Whittaker also used his platform to advocate for the creation of North Cascades National Park, the Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park.

  • In 1963, Whittaker became the first American to summit Mount Everest.
  • Whittaker led REI as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963 and a longtime leader at the outdoor retailer REI.

Nawang Gombu

Whittaker's climbing partner who summited Mount Everest with him in 1963.

Lloyd Anderson

The co-founder of REI who hired Whittaker in 1955.

Robert Kennedy

A close friend of Whittaker's with whom he climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada, which was later named Mount Kennedy.

Lou Whittaker

Jim Whittaker's twin brother, who decided to skip the 1963 Everest expedition in favor of opening a sporting goods store.

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What they’re saying

“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

— Leif Whittaker, Son of Jim Whittaker

“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them.”

— REI

“He pulled many a climber up the peak. He did the same for all our spirits. He still does.”

— Jay Inslee, Former Governor of Washington

The takeaway

Jim Whittaker's legacy extends far beyond his historic first American ascent of Mount Everest. He used his platform to advocate for outdoor conservation, grow the outdoor retail industry, and inspire people around the world to seek adventure and connect with nature. His life's work left an indelible mark on the mountaineering community and the broader outdoor movement.