Legendary mountaineer Jim Whittaker, first American to summit Mount Everest, dies at 97

Whittaker was a pioneering climber and longtime leader of outdoor retailer REI

Apr. 9, 2026 at 12:50am

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A fractured, geometric painting depicting the iconic image of a mountaineer standing atop a snowy peak, the figure and landscape broken down into sharp, overlapping planes of color and form.The pioneering spirit and daring feats of legendary mountaineer Jim Whittaker are captured in a cubist interpretation of his historic Everest ascent.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the legendary mountaineer who was the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97. Whittaker was also a longtime employee and leader of the outdoor retailer REI, helping to grow the company's membership from 250,000 to over 900,000 during his tenure as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979.

Why it matters

Whittaker's historic Everest ascent helped spark widespread interest in mountaineering in the United States and established him as a celebrity figure. He also used his platform to advocate for the protection of wilderness areas, testifying before Congress and helping to establish national parks like North Cascades and Redwood.

The details

Whittaker reached the summit of Everest in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu, becoming the first American to accomplish the feat. He had been working at REI since 1955 and went on to lead the company as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979, overseeing a surge in membership from 250,000 to over 900,000. Whittaker was also close friends with Robert Kennedy and climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada that was later named after the presidential contender.

  • Whittaker summited Everest in 1963, 10 years after the pioneering climb of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
  • Whittaker led REI from 1971 to 1979.
  • Whittaker died on Tuesday, April 9, 2026, at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The legendary mountaineer who was the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963. He also served as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI.

Nawang Gombu

The Sherpa mountaineer who summited Everest alongside Jim Whittaker in 1963.

Edmund Hillary

The pioneering mountaineer who, along with Tenzing Norgay, was the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953.

Tenzing Norgay

The Sherpa mountaineer who, along with Edmund Hillary, was the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953.

Robert Kennedy

The presidential contender and close friend of Jim Whittaker, with whom he climbed a 14,000-foot peak in Canada that was later named after him.

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What they’re saying

“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

— Leif Whittaker, Son of Jim Whittaker

“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them.”

— REI

“When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.”

— Jim Whittaker

“Only our families and closest friends ever knew the difference.”

— Lou Whittaker, Twin brother of Jim Whittaker

“That was Mount Everest.”

— Jim Whittaker

The takeaway

Jim Whittaker's legacy as a pioneering mountaineer and outdoor advocate continues to inspire adventurers and conservationists alike. His historic Everest climb and leadership at REI helped shape the outdoor industry and the public's appreciation for protecting wild spaces.