Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mount Everest, Dies at 97

The pioneering mountaineer and outdoor industry leader was a national celebrity after his historic 1963 climb.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 4:20am

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A cubist, geometric painting depicting the iconic image of a mountaineer standing atop a snowy peak, with the figure and landscape broken down into sharp, overlapping planes of color and form.Whittaker's historic ascent of Everest captured the public's imagination and inspired generations of outdoor enthusiasts.Port Townsend Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, has died at the age of 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker's successful climb made him a national celebrity, leading to appearances on magazine covers and a Hubbard Medal presentation from President John F. Kennedy. Whittaker also had a long career in the outdoor industry, serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

Why it matters

Whittaker's pioneering ascent of Everest was a landmark achievement that captured the American public's imagination during the height of the Space Race. His life and career also reflected the rise of outdoor recreation and the growth of the outdoor industry in the United States.

The details

On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and his Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu began their ascent of Everest during a storm. At the time, fewer than 10 people had reached the summit. Whittaker's successful climb made him a celebrity, leading to appearances on the covers of National Geographic and Life magazines. President Kennedy presented Whittaker with the Hubbard Medal, the National Geographic Society's highest honor. Whittaker also had a long career in the outdoor industry, serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

  • On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and his Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu began their ascent of Everest.
  • Whittaker reached the summit of Everest in 1963, becoming the first American to do so.
  • In 1965, Whittaker climbed Mount Kennedy in Canada with Robert F. Kennedy.
  • Whittaker died on Tuesday, April 8, 2026, at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, at the age of 97.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, Whittaker became a national celebrity and went on to have a long career in the outdoor industry, including serving as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of REI.

Nawang Gombu

Whittaker's Sherpa guide who accompanied him on the 1963 ascent of Mount Everest.

John F. Kennedy

The President of the United States who presented Whittaker with the Hubbard Medal, the National Geographic Society's highest honor, in recognition of his historic Everest climb.

Robert F. Kennedy

The younger brother of President John F. Kennedy, who climbed Mount Kennedy in Canada with Whittaker in 1965.

Dianne Roberts

Whittaker's wife of 52 years.

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What they’re saying

“'Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.'”

— Whittaker Family

“'I didn't realize what impact [the climb] would have. I didn't think it would catch the imagination of the public as much as it did.'”

— Jim Whittaker

“'You're in nature, participating in God's creation … it's such a high, such a spiritual thing. I think it's good to participate in that and to face life. When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.'”

— Jim Whittaker

The takeaway

Whittaker's life and achievements reflect the growing popularity of outdoor recreation and the outdoor industry in the United States during the latter half of the 20th century. His historic Everest climb and subsequent career in the industry helped inspire generations of Americans to explore and appreciate the natural world.