The Decades-Long Airline Food Fight

From caviar and Cornish hens to peanuts and Cheez-Its, the evolution of in-flight dining has been a rollercoaster ride

Published on Feb. 6, 2026

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The history of airline food service has seen dramatic changes over the decades, from the early days of luxury first-class meals to the cost-cutting measures that have reduced in-flight dining to basic snacks. The story traces the rise of gourmet airline cuisine, the "sandwich wars" between airlines, and the eventual shift towards more budget-friendly options as airlines faced financial pressures, especially after 9/11.

Why it matters

The evolution of airline food service reflects broader trends in the industry, including increased competition, deregulation, and the need for cost-cutting measures. It also highlights how changing consumer preferences and technological factors like noise levels have impacted the dining experience at 30,000 feet.

The details

In the early 20th century, airline travel was a luxury, with all passengers receiving the same high-end meals featuring items like caviar and Cornish hens. As competition increased, airlines tried to differentiate themselves through their cuisine, leading to the "sandwich wars" of the 1950s. Cost-cutting measures in the 1980s, like removing olives from salads, set off a wave of changes, with airlines turning to branded fast food options. The taste of food is also impacted by the loud environment of an airplane, requiring more salt, sugar, and umami flavors.

  • In 1929, the first in-flight meal was served on a Golden Ray Service flight from Paris to London.
  • In 1941, the nation's first noticeable fine dining was served 8,000 feet above the Earth on a DC-3 flight.
  • In 1948, cheaper tourist class tickets were introduced, and economy class began six years later.
  • In 1952, Scandinavian Airlines System started the "great sandwich wars" by serving open-faced sandwiches to tourist class passengers.
  • In 1955, Northwest Orient introduced the "Fujiyama Room", a flying tiki lounge offering American-styled Japanese food.

The players

Northwest Orient

An airline that was originally headquartered in Eagen, Minnesota and became known for its high-class in-flight dining, including the "Fujiyama Room" tiki lounge. It later merged with Delta Airlines in 2010.

Bob Crandall

The CEO of American Airlines in the 1980s who noticed passengers weren't eating their olives, leading him to cut one olive per salad per passenger, a cost-cutting measure that sparked similar changes across the airline industry.

Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS)

An airline that started the "great sandwich wars" in 1952 by serving open-faced sandwiches to tourist class passengers, which competitors argued was degrading the purpose of more expensive first-class tickets.

Imperial Airways

An airline that countered SAS's sandwich offerings by providing five-course luncheons and bedtime snacks on its 220-mile flights across the English Channel.

Alitalia

An Italian airline that skipped sandwiches and went straight to offering an Italian restaurant-style dining experience in the air.

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What they’re saying

“Branded foods are perceived as having more value and being of better quality.”

— Larry DeShon, Director of Catering, United Airlines (Pittsburgh Post-Gazette)

“People like to be served branded food. They are familiar with the taste. No matter where they go in the country, Blimpie always tastes the same.”

— Todd Clay, Spokesperson, Delta Airlines (Pittsburgh Post-Gazette)

What’s next

As airlines continue to navigate the post-pandemic landscape, the future of in-flight dining remains uncertain. Experts predict further cost-cutting measures and a continued shift towards more basic snack offerings, though some airlines may seek to differentiate themselves through unique culinary experiences.

The takeaway

The history of airline food service reflects the broader challenges and changes facing the aviation industry, from increased competition and deregulation to the need for cost-cutting measures. While the days of gourmet in-flight dining may be behind us, the evolution of airline food highlights the industry's constant search for ways to keep passengers satisfied, both in the air and on the ground.