Vienna's 'Spritzgasse' Exposes Exploitation in Italian Restaurants

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A new novel, 'Risto Reich' by Luigi Chiarella, offers a fictional yet authentic portrayal of the challenging realities faced by restaurant workers in Vienna's Italian dining establishments. The book, inspired by Chiarella's own decade-long experience as a waiter, depicts a world of long hours, low pay, unpaid overtime, intense surveillance, and even potential ties to organized crime and money laundering.

Why it matters

The novel 'Risto Reich' shines a light on the often unseen exploitation and labor issues within Vienna's thriving Italian restaurant industry, highlighting systemic problems that extend beyond a single establishment. This story provides important context for diners to consider the human cost behind the dining experience and encourages support for restaurants that prioritize fair labor practices.

The details

Chiarella's novel, set on the fictional 'Spritzgasse' street, portrays a reality of ten to eleven-hour shifts, limited contracts, and unpaid overtime for servers who are constantly rushed to keep up with the pace. The pressure to maximize profits leads some establishments to cut corners, using nearly expired food and underreporting income to evade taxes. More alarmingly, the potential for money laundering through restaurants with ties to organized crime, such as the Camorra, is also explored. The work environment is often characterized by intense surveillance, with managers closely monitoring even minor actions, creating a climate of fear and control.

• In 2017, a Camorra member was arrested in Vienna for using a pizzeria to launder drug money.

What’s next

The article suggests that positive change is possible within the industry, as evidenced by Chiarella's current work in a restaurant with a more ethical employer who understands the challenges faced by staff and fosters a team-oriented environment.