Global Fashion Councils Urge Saks Global to Pay Independent Designers

CFDA, BFC, CNMI, and FHCM call on Saks CEO to ensure fair treatment of small brands in restructuring plan

Mar. 16, 2026 at 9:05pm

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The Council of Fashion Designers of America, the British Fashion Council, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, and the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode have jointly written to Saks Global CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck, urging the company to pay its debts to independent designers as part of its ongoing restructuring process. The fashion councils emphasized the importance of supporting emerging brands, who lack the financial reserves of larger companies and could be severely impacted by unpaid orders.

Why it matters

Saks Global's bankruptcy has left many small and independent fashion brands in a precarious position, with thousands of dollars in unpaid bills for goods shipped prior to the bankruptcy filing. The fashion councils are calling for Saks to ensure fair treatment of these designers, who are vital to the industry's creativity, innovation, and cultural relevance.

The details

In their letter, the fashion council leaders stated that losing payment for fulfilled orders is not merely a setback, but a threat to independent brands' ability to continue operations. They emphasized that these smaller companies lack the financial reserves of larger conglomerates, and unpaid orders can impact their payroll, production commitments, and overall stability. The councils urged Saks Global to consider the impact on emerging designers as it finalizes its restructuring plan.

  • On March 16, 2026, the leaders of the four global fashion councils wrote a joint letter to Saks CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck.
  • Earlier in March 2026, Saks Global announced that it had received approval of its five-year business plan by an ad hoc group of the Company's senior secured bondholders and secured access to an additional $300 million of its $1.75 billion in committed capital.

The players

Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)

The governing body that oversees fashion designers in the United States.

British Fashion Council (BFC)

The governing body that oversees fashion designers in the United Kingdom.

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI)

The governing body that oversees fashion designers in Italy.

Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM)

The governing body that oversees fashion designers in France.

Geoffroy van Raemdonck

The CEO of Saks Global.

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What they’re saying

“We are writing to address the impact of Saks Global's current restructuring process on young and independent fashion brands. We understand that restructuring processes are complex and often involve tough decisions. At the same time, we have been informed that some emerging and independent designers have been told they might not be paid for goods they have already delivered.”

— Steven Kolb, Laura Weir, Carlo Capasa, and Pascal Morand, Leaders of the CFDA, BFC, CNMI, and FHCM

“Independent designers lack the financial reserves that large groups and conglomerates have. When payment for delivered goods is withheld, the effects can quickly go beyond a single transaction, impacting payroll, production commitments, and the stability of these companies.”

— Steven Kolb, Laura Weir, Carlo Capasa, and Pascal Morand, Leaders of the CFDA, BFC, CNMI, and FHCM

“The ongoing strength of our industry relies on supporting the next generation of designers. Ensuring fair treatment now would send a strong message about Saks Global's dedication to the creative community that fashion ultimately depends on.”

— Steven Kolb, Laura Weir, Carlo Capasa, and Pascal Morand, Leaders of the CFDA, BFC, CNMI, and FHCM

What’s next

Saks Global is expected to file its restructuring plan with the US Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of Texas within the next several weeks, at which point the fashion councils' demands for fair treatment of independent designers will be further addressed.

The takeaway

The joint letter from the global fashion councils underscores the vital role that independent designers play in driving creativity, innovation, and cultural relevance in the industry. As Saks Global navigates its bankruptcy, ensuring these smaller brands are paid for their work will be crucial to preserving the long-term health and diversity of the fashion landscape.