Lowcountry Cuisine Honors Gullah Geechee Rice Culture

Charleston's food scene celebrates the welcoming flavors of the region, which are deeply rooted in the complex history of the Gullah Geechee people.

Apr. 2, 2026 at 2:43pm

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The Lowcountry region of South Carolina, centered around Charleston, has a distinct culinary identity that is deeply tied to the history and culture of the Gullah Geechee people. Enslaved West Africans brought expertise in rice cultivation to the region in the 18th and 19th centuries, making rice the economic engine that drove the local economy. Beyond economics, rice became a vessel for preserving Gullah Geechee identity, culture, and traditions, which are now experiencing a resurgence of interest in the culinary world. However, as Lowcountry cuisine gains global recognition, there are concerns about the risk of cultural appropriation and the need to ensure the Gullah Geechee story is told accurately and without simplification.

Why it matters

The Lowcountry's culinary identity is inextricably linked to the history and culture of the Gullah Geechee people, who have preserved their traditions and identity through the cultivation and preparation of rice. As the region's cuisine gains global recognition, it is important to ensure that the Gullah Geechee story is told accurately and without simplification, and that the community's role in shaping the Lowcountry's culinary landscape is properly acknowledged and celebrated.

The details

Enslaved West Africans brought expertise in rice cultivation to the Lowcountry region in the 18th and 19th centuries, and their knowledge of tidal irrigation systems and sustainable harvesting techniques enabled the region to become a major exporter of rice, generating millions of dollars annually. After the Civil War, many freed West African descendants moved to the Sea Islands, where they continued to cultivate rice, turning the practice into a form of cultural reclamation. The Gullah Geechee lifestyle, which includes distinct traditions like sweetgrass basket-making and an English-based Creole language, is deeply rooted in the region's rice culture. Dishes like Lowcountry red rice, which is closely related to West African jollof rice and Senegalese thieboudienne, are central to Gullah Geechee identity and community.

  • During the 18th and 19th centuries, South Carolina exported more than 90 million pounds of rice annually, generating between $2-4 million per year.
  • After the Civil War, many freed West African descendants moved to the Sea Islands, including Edisto, St. Helena, and Johns Islands.

The players

KJ Kearney

Owner of the social media platform Black Food Fridays, who notes that rice was the foundational crop of the Lowcountry economy, not cotton.

Amethyst Ganaway

Chef and author who states that Lowcountry red rice dishes have always been made in relatively large portions, found at every party, home-going service, or Sunday dinner.

BJ Dennis

Chef who adds that red rice is part of the Gullah Geechee community's West African DNA, and that when there is space to gather, there is a reason to eat.

Alyssa Maute Smith

Charleston Wine and Food Festival's Executive Director, who states that you cannot talk about Lowcountry food or the resilience of the Gullah Geechee people without including rice.

Bintou N'Daw

Senegalese chef and owner of Bintu Atelier in Charleston, who notes the depths of rice culture in Senegal, where rice accounts for five out of seven traditional dishes regardless of social class.

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What’s next

As the culinary world continues to celebrate Gullah Geechee traditions, it will be important for diners and industry professionals to ensure that the community's story is told accurately and without simplification, in order to protect the integrity of the culture and its deep roots in the Lowcountry region.

The takeaway

The Lowcountry's culinary identity is inextricably linked to the history and culture of the Gullah Geechee people, who have preserved their traditions and identity through the cultivation and preparation of rice. As this cuisine gains global recognition, it is crucial that the community's central role in shaping the region's food landscape is properly acknowledged and celebrated, without risk of cultural appropriation or oversimplification.