New York Fashion Week Designers Reveal Inspirations Behind Fall 2026 First Looks

From Ralph Lauren's 'renegade spirit' to Altuzarra's 'sculpted shoulder' and 'layered textures', designers share the stories behind their opening runway ensembles.

Published on Feb. 26, 2026

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As New York Fashion Week showcased over 60 collections this season, designers revealed the inspirations and thought processes behind their opening runway looks. Many began with more wearable, familiar silhouettes like black coats, white shirts, and denim, using these as a 'palette cleanser' to set the tone before transitioning into more extreme and experimental pieces. Designers discussed how the first look acts as a thesis statement, crystallizing the spirit and vocabulary of the entire collection.

Why it matters

The first look of a runway show is a crucial moment that immediately sets the tone and communicates the designer's vision for the season. As the industry and consumers increasingly experience collections digitally, the live, in-person impact of that opening ensemble becomes even more important in capturing attention and making a strong first impression.

The details

Designers like Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Carolina Herrera's Wes Gordon emphasized how the first look 'distills the spirit of the season' and 'sets the tone of the show.' Others, such as Area's Nicholas Aburn and Fforme's Frances Howie, described using more pared-back, familiar silhouettes as a 'quiet starting point' to ease viewers into their more experimental designs. Calvin Klein's Veronica Leoni and Altuzarra's Joseph Altuzarra spoke of crafting the opening look as a kind of 'thesis statement' to lure in the audience.

  • The Fall 2026 New York Fashion Week shows took place in February 2026.

The players

Ralph Lauren

An American fashion designer who founded the Ralph Lauren Corporation and is known for his preppy, Americana-inspired aesthetic.

Michael Kors

An American fashion designer who founded the Michael Kors brand, known for his luxury sportswear and accessories.

Wes Gordon

The creative director of the Carolina Herrera fashion house, known for his modern take on the brand's sophisticated aesthetic.

Nicholas Aburn

The designer behind the experimental New York-based label Area, known for his avant-garde silhouettes and fabrications.

Frances Howie

The designer of the minimalist New York label Fforme, focused on elevated essentials and timeless design.

Veronica Leoni

The women's design director at Calvin Klein, responsible for shaping the brand's modern, refined aesthetic.

Joseph Altuzarra

The founder and designer of the eponymous Altuzarra label, known for his tailored, feminine designs.

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What they’re saying

“I love the adventure of fashion. My fall 2026 collection is inspired by that kind of renegade spirit and the confidence of the woman who will wear it in her own personal way—to tell her own story. She respects the timeless quality of things from the past but reinvents them for now. Her style is not defined by time. It's enduring.”

— Ralph Lauren

“I wanted to really connect the showstopping drama and opulence with something that felt totally streamlined, timeless, modern.”

— Michael Kors

“This first look really sets the tone of the show—there's a confidence balanced with sophistication. The jacket is sculptural and clean, and then the skirt brings this incredible texture and movement.”

— Wes Gordon, Carolina Herrera

“I wanted the magic of the collection's more extreme pieces to live in this quiet starting point.”

— Nicholas Aburn, Area

“This coat was the starting point for the entire collection, and from the beginning I knew it had to be the first look. It distills the spirit of the season—a sculpted shoulder, a defined waist, layered textures, and a quiet, moody tension.”

— Joseph Altuzarra

The takeaway

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the power of the first runway look to immediately capture attention and set the tone for an entire collection has only grown. Designers are using these opening ensembles as a strategic tool to distill their creative visions, tease what's to come, and forge a connection with their audience in an increasingly digital landscape.