London Designers Unveil Runway First Looks for Fall 2026

From Burberry's twist on a trench to Harris Reed's maximalist statement, the opening ensembles at London Fashion Week reveal designers' visions for the season.

Published on Feb. 26, 2026

Got story updates? Submit your updates here. ›

As the Fall 2026 fashion shows unfold, designers are using their first runway looks to distill the essence of their collections. In New York, the opening ensembles tended toward sharp, minimal sportswear, while London saw a more ebullient and dramatic approach. Burberry's Daniel Lee kicked things off with an exaggerated ruffle-collared trench, hinting at a reverence for house codes with a twist. Harris Reed embraced maximalism with a gold quilted collar and fuchsia sash, while Erdem Moralıoğlu's 20th anniversary show opened with a spliced car coat that merged different eras of the brand's history. Designers reflected on the significance of their first looks and how they encapsulate the themes and aesthetics of their Fall 2026 collections.

Why it matters

The first look on the runway is a crucial statement that sets the tone for a designer's entire collection. These opening ensembles offer insight into the creative vision, brand identity, and broader fashion trends emerging from each city. As London Fashion Week unfolds, the designers' reflections on their first looks provide a window into the dialogue between different styles, backgrounds, and stories that is shaping the season.

The details

At Burberry, Daniel Lee opened with a khaki trench coat featuring an exaggerated ruffle collar, hinting at a reverence for house codes with a unique twist. Harris Reed's first look, modeled by Lindsey Wixson, embraced maximalism with an ensemble featuring an oversized gold quilted collar and a knotted fuchsia sash. Erdem Moralıoğlu's 20th anniversary show opened with a spliced car coat, combining a floral jacquard top and an embellished blue satin bottom, capturing the tension between merging different histories. Designers like Simone Rocha, Conner Ives, and Ronan Mckenzie also used their first looks to set the tone for their collections, drawing on themes of duality, repurposed materials, and personal experiences.

  • The Fall 2026 fashion shows are currently unfolding.

The players

Daniel Lee

The creative director of Burberry.

Harris Reed

A London-based designer known for his maximalist aesthetic.

Erdem Moralıoğlu

The founder and creative director of the Erdem fashion label, celebrating the brand's 20th anniversary.

Simone Rocha

A London-based designer known for her romantic and avant-garde designs.

Conner Ives

A London-based designer who incorporates repurposed and vintage materials into his collections.

Ronan Mckenzie

A London-based designer inspired by his personal experiences, including his time in secondary school P.E. classes.

Got photos? Submit your photos here. ›

What they’re saying

“We wanted to create clothes for the night as well as the day. That duality felt very true to how people in this city actually live and move.”

— Daniel Lee

“The first look represents the ivory pony in [the Irish folktale] Tír na nÓg. It's made from repurposed cotton punched lace and sequin tulle which has been hand embellished with pearls. It's worn with our lace-embroidered, slip-on brogues, Adidas Three-Stripe underpinnings, and our pearl cluster drip earrings. She also has clear nails with piercings.”

— Simone Rocha

“My fall winter collection is titled 'The Imaginary Conversation.' It's about the idea of muses from the last 20 years talking to each other. [Opening model] Edie Campbell carries that sense of dialogue so effortlessly. She encompasses the feeling of the collection, like an actor in a movie. The opening look is spliced between two different seasons, two different muses. It captures that tension between merging different histories brought together. As Edie stepped into the light on the runway, it felt as though the imaginary conversation began.”

— Erdem Moralıoğlu

“The first look features a reconstituted fur and vintage silk embroidery that has been re-embroidered onto a silk crepe satin base. The 'I work nights' T-shirt is a collaboration between Conner Ives and the Poog podcast and the reconstituted denim features gold bullion embroidery. For the girl who works nights!”

— Conner Ives

“This look represents familiarity. I chose this to be the first look, because of what viewers got to know me for while at Central Saint Martins: a parka coat with this oversized detachable shearling trim. But this time around, it's a more refined and well thought-out product from someone who has gained industry experience after university.”

— TraiCeline Pratt

The takeaway

The first looks from London Fashion Week designers reveal a collective emphasis on dialogue between seemingly conflicting elements, whether it's Burberry's twist on a classic trench, Harris Reed's maximalist statement, or Erdem's merging of different eras. These opening ensembles offer a glimpse into the creative visions and brand identities shaping the Fall 2026 season, highlighting London's reputation for embracing bold, experimental, and multifaceted fashion.