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Marc Jacobs Revisits His 1990s Heyday
The designer's latest fashion show evokes his iconic past collections.
Feb. 10, 2026 at 8:39am
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After years of avant-garde, high-concept fashion, Marc Jacobs returned to his roots at New York Fashion Week, showcasing a collection that heavily referenced his influential 1990s designs. The show featured classic silhouettes like pencil skirts, trouser suits, and slip dresses, with subtle subversive twists. Jacobs acknowledged the debt to his own past as well as other iconic 90s designers, cementing his legacy as a designer who could capture the zeitgeist.
Why it matters
Jacobs was once considered the savior of American fashion, with the ability to tap into the cultural moment like no other designer. His return to more wearable, nostalgic designs signals a potential shift in his creative direction and raises questions about the future of his brand, which has been rumored to be up for sale.
The details
Jacobs' latest collection featured classic 90s silhouettes like pencil skirts, trouser suits, and slip dresses, but with subtle subversive touches like skirts with protruding 'pockets' at the hips and minis hiked up above the natural waistline. The designer acknowledged the influence of other 90s icons like Prada, Helmut Lang, and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as his own iconic Perry Ellis and Marc by Marc Jacobs collections.
- Marc Jacobs showed his latest collection on Monday evening during New York Fashion Week.
The players
Marc Jacobs
An American fashion designer who was once considered the savior of New York fashion, known for his ability to capture the cultural zeitgeist.
LVMH
The French luxury conglomerate that owns the Marc Jacobs brand, which has been rumored to be up for sale.
Authentic Brands Group
The licensing specialist that recently had negotiations to acquire the Marc Jacobs brand from LVMH, though the deal fell through.
Anna Weyant
The artist who painted an oil portrait of a daisy, Jacobs' most successful perfume, that was displayed at the fashion show.
What they’re saying
“He shows his collections before New York Fashion Week officially starts, and thus in front of a friendly hometown audience for whom Mr. Jacobs is something of a national treasure, and they are sold only at Bergdorf Goodman. The result has seemed, over the last few years, increasingly irrelevant. An exercise in self-indulgence rather than a good faith dialogue with potential customers.”
— Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Critic
“In his show notes, the designer included a brief meditation on 'memory' and 'loss,' and questions of 'who we are, what we create, what we leave behind and what we carry forward.'”
— Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Critic
What’s next
The future of the Marc Jacobs brand remains uncertain, as LVMH continues to explore potential sale options.
The takeaway
Jacobs' return to his iconic 90s aesthetic signals a potential creative resurgence, but also raises questions about the designer's legacy and the long-term viability of his brand in the current fashion landscape.
