Marc Jacobs Reflects on Past in Fall 2026 Collection

Designer's 'Memory. Loss.' show at Park Avenue Armory explores nostalgia and personal grief.

Published on Feb. 10, 2026

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For his Fall 2026 collection, Marc Jacobs returned to the Park Avenue Armory in New York, eschewing the grand set designs of recent seasons for a sparse, minimalist presentation. The clothes themselves were a reflection on Jacobs' own design history, featuring reinterpreted silhouettes and references to past collections, collaborations, and inspirations. The show was dedicated to Jacobs' late friend, modeling agent Louie Chaban, and the overall tone was one of bittersweet nostalgia rather than escapism or joy.

Why it matters

Jacobs' decision to look back on his own design legacy rather than forge ahead with new, fantastical creations speaks to the complex and often difficult relationship fashion has with nostalgia. While there is comfort and inspiration to be found in revisiting the past, it can also trigger feelings of grief, loss, and the difficult realities of the present. Jacobs' honest exploration of these themes resonates with the broader cultural reckoning happening around nostalgia and its role in our lives.

The details

The Fall 2026 collection featured reinterpreted silhouettes and references to Jacobs' past, including nods to Yves Saint Laurent's 1965 Mondrian shift dress, Prada's belts and slim sweaters, and Jacobs' own work with the Marc by Marc Jacobs and Perry Ellis lines. The clothes felt contemporary yet unmistakably Jacobs, with details like structured waistlines and tweaked proportions. The show was staged simply, with a single row of folding chairs lining one wall and a small work by artist Anna Weyant on a foldout table.

  • The Fall 2026 show was Jacobs' first at the Park Avenue Armory in two years, after three consecutive seasons at the New York Public Library.
  • The collection was titled 'Memory. Loss.' and dedicated to Jacobs' late friend, modeling agent Louie Chaban.

The players

Marc Jacobs

An American fashion designer known for his eponymous label as well as his work with brands like Perry Ellis and Prada.

Louie Chaban

A legendary modeling agent and close friend of Marc Jacobs, to whom the Fall 2026 collection was dedicated.

Anna Weyant

An artist whose work, a painting of a single daisy, was featured on a foldout table in the sparse show space.

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What they’re saying

“Hope is work. Memories, both bittersweet and beautiful, are a faculty of purpose influencing currency and future actions—who we are, what we create, what we leave behind, and what we carry forward.”

— Marc Jacobs (Harper's Bazaar)

The takeaway

Jacobs' Fall 2026 collection reflects the complex and often difficult relationship fashion has with nostalgia. While revisiting the past can provide comfort and inspiration, it can also trigger feelings of grief, loss, and the harsh realities of the present. Jacobs' honest exploration of these themes resonates with the broader cultural reckoning happening around nostalgia and its role in our lives.