Greatcoat Controversy Sparks Debate Over Clothing Symbolism

Fashion critic examines how military-inspired outerwear has taken on new meaning amid ICE raids and protests.

Published on Feb. 23, 2026

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A recent article in The New York Times explores how the military-style greatcoat has become a symbol of controversy, with its associations shifting from wartime utility to political statement. As ICE raids have ramped up across the country, the coat's appearance on a Border Patrol official has led many to draw parallels to Nazi Germany, causing some wearers to reconsider donning the garment. The article offers advice on how to style the coat to avoid unwanted associations, while also acknowledging fashion's long history of repurposing military garb for protest movements.

Why it matters

This story highlights the complex and evolving symbolism of fashion, particularly when certain items of clothing become linked to political or social issues. As the greatcoat takes on new meaning in the current climate of immigration enforcement, it raises questions about how individuals can navigate the changing connotations of their wardrobe choices.

The details

The greatcoat, originally designed as practical outerwear for military troops, has been adopted by the fashion industry and the general public over the years. However, the coat's appearance on a Border Patrol official during ICE raids has led many to draw parallels to the uniforms of Nazi Germany, causing some wearers to reconsider donning the garment. The article suggests that the way the coat is styled and worn can significantly impact its perceived meaning, and that removing it from a militaristic context by pairing it with more casual or cheerful accessories can help mitigate unwanted associations.

  • The ICE raids have been picking up steam across the country in recent years.
  • Gregory Bovino, a Border Patrol official, has been wearing the greatcoat as part of his uniform during the ICE raids.

The players

Vanessa Friedman

The fashion critic who wrote the article for The New York Times.

Gregory Bovino

A Border Patrol official who has been wearing the greatcoat as part of his uniform during ICE raids.

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What they’re saying

“Clothes on their own are just pieces of cloth sewn into a pattern. It is the associations we attach to them that change how we see them — and how others see us in them.”

— Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Critic (The New York Times)

What’s next

The article suggests that individuals who are uncomfortable with the current associations of the greatcoat may want to consider alternative outerwear options, such as a puffer jacket or parka, which have fewer military-inspired connotations.

The takeaway

This story highlights the complex and evolving symbolism of fashion, particularly when certain items of clothing become linked to political or social issues. As the greatcoat takes on new meaning in the current climate of immigration enforcement, it raises questions about how individuals can navigate the changing connotations of their wardrobe choices and the importance of being mindful of the associations we attach to the clothes we wear.