Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

The pioneering mountaineer and outdoorsman left a lasting legacy in the Pacific Northwest and beyond.

Apr. 9, 2026 at 6:35am

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A dreamy, impressionistic photograph showing the silhouette of a lone mountaineer against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks, conveying the enduring spirit of adventure and exploration embodied by Jim Whittaker.The life and adventures of pioneering mountaineer Jim Whittaker continue to inspire generations of outdoor enthusiasts in the Pacific Northwest and beyond.Washington Today

Jim Whittaker, the first American citizen to reach the summit of Mount Everest, passed away at his home in Port Townsend, Washington at the age of 97. Whittaker's historic 1963 ascent with Sherpa Nawang Gombu was a landmark achievement, but his impact extended far beyond that single accomplishment through his decades-long career in the outdoors, his leadership at REI, and his involvement in environmental and conservation causes.

Why it matters

Whittaker's life and work embodied the adventurous, outdoor-loving spirit of the Pacific Northwest, and his legacy as a pioneering mountaineer and influential business leader will continue to inspire generations of climbers, hikers, and outdoor enthusiasts.

The details

On May 1, 1963, Whittaker and Sherpa Nawang Gombu became the 10th and 11th people ever to reach the summit of Mount Everest. This was just one highlight in Whittaker's long career, which also included guiding expeditions up Mount Rainier, serving as president and CEO of REI as the company expanded nationwide, and leading a 1990 expedition to Everest that included climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union, and China.

  • Whittaker and his twin brother Lou started climbing and exploring the outdoors as teenagers in the 1940s as part of the Boy Scouts and the Mountaineers climbing club.
  • In 1955, Whittaker began working at the Recreational Equipment Co-op, which later became REI.
  • Whittaker became friends with Senator Robert F. Kennedy in 1965 after guiding an expedition to the top of Mount Kennedy in Canada.
  • Whittaker led an expedition back to Mount Everest in 1990 that included climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union, and China.
  • Whittaker passed away at his home in Port Townsend, Washington on April 8, 2026 at the age of 97.

The players

Jim Whittaker

The first American citizen to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Whittaker was a pioneering mountaineer and outdoorsman who spent decades inspiring others through his adventures, business leadership, and environmental advocacy.

Nawang Gombu

A Sherpa mountaineer who accompanied Whittaker to the summit of Everest in 1963, becoming the 11th person to reach the top of the world's highest peak.

Robert F. Kennedy

The late U.S. Senator who became friends with Whittaker after the mountaineer guided an expedition to the top of Mount Kennedy in Canada in 1965.

Melissa Arnot Reid

The first American woman to reach the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen, who praised Whittaker's lasting impact beyond his singular accomplishment.

Jay Inslee

The former Governor of Washington who said Whittaker epitomized the most admired and inspiring values of the state.

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What they’re saying

“Seldom do you have one person epitomize the most admired, treasured and inspiring value of a whole state, and that's what Jim Whittaker does.”

— Jay Inslee, Former Governor of Washington

“He didn't just arrive at the summit and then stay there forever as a shrine to his singular accomplishment. One of the major impacts for me is this idea that no one accomplishment is like your arrival point in adventure. Adventure is the forever unfolding thing that we're always on.”

— Melissa Arnot Reid, First U.S. Woman to Summit Everest Without Oxygen

The takeaway

Jim Whittaker's life and legacy as a pioneering mountaineer, business leader, and environmental advocate cemented his place as an iconic figure in the Pacific Northwest and beyond, inspiring generations to embrace the spirit of adventure and outdoor exploration that he embodied.