Vintage Tees Remain a Fashion Staple

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson shares her love of graphic t-shirts and the appeal of the slogan tee

Mar. 17, 2026 at 12:03pm

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Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, a fashion writer, discusses her long-standing affinity for graphic t-shirts, particularly vintage and slogan tees. She traces the cultural history and significance of the slogan tee, from Paris Hilton's infamous 'Stop Being Poor' shirt to the 'Team Aniston' and 'Team Jolie' softball shirts. Karefa-Johnson also shares her own t-shirt collection, including a prized 1991 Public Enemy 'Fear of a Black Planet' shirt, and her approach to building a wardrobe around versatile t-shirt pieces during fashion weeks.

Why it matters

Karefa-Johnson's essay highlights the enduring appeal and cultural relevance of the graphic t-shirt, particularly the slogan tee, as a form of self-expression, social commentary, and fashion statement. Her personal connection to t-shirts as a means of navigating body image challenges and cultivating a distinct style reflects broader trends in fashion and the ways in which clothing can be used to communicate identity and values.

The details

Karefa-Johnson describes her 't-shirt addiction', tracing her love of graphic tees back to her teenage years when she would scour resale sites for rare band shirts. She notes that the slogan tee, in particular, has held a special place in pop culture, serving as a 'cultural weapon' for celebrities and everyday people alike to convey messages, make statements, and engage in playful banter. While acknowledging the potential for bullying and controversy, Karefa-Johnson argues that the slogan tee format is 'genuinely potent' in its ability to allow the wearer to 'say exactly what you mean'. She also shares her own experiences building a wardrobe around versatile t-shirt pieces, particularly during the chaos of fashion weeks, where a 't-shirt formula' has become a go-to approach for her eclectic personal style.

  • Karefa-Johnson wrote this essay in March 2026.

The players

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson

A fashion writer who has a long-standing affinity for graphic t-shirts, particularly vintage and slogan tees.

Paris Hilton

A celebrity who wore an infamous 'Stop Being Poor' t-shirt, which Karefa-Johnson cites as an example of the cultural significance and potential controversy surrounding slogan tees.

Julia Roberts

An actress who wore a 'A Low Vera' t-shirt, which Karefa-Johnson mentions as another example of the slogan tee being used to convey a message.

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What they’re saying

“Sure, some of it was outright bullying, and the bullying was ugly and worth rejecting — yes, there was a certain cornball eye-rolliness to all of it, but mostly it was playful, and flirtatious, and funny, and the format itself was genuinely potent. A t-shirt that said exactly what you meant.”

— Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Fashion Writer (substack.com)

The takeaway

Karefa-Johnson's essay highlights the enduring appeal and cultural significance of the graphic t-shirt, particularly the slogan tee, as a means of self-expression, social commentary, and fashion statement. Her personal connection to t-shirts as a way to navigate body image challenges and cultivate a distinct style reflects broader trends in fashion and the ways in which clothing can be used to communicate identity and values.