Couture Enters a New Era with Diverse Perspectives

Designers bring fresh takes on the venerable art form, from fantastical costume-making to a focus on wearability.

Jan. 31, 2026 at 3:15am

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Couture fashion shows in Paris this week highlighted the evolving nature of the haute couture industry, with designers offering diverse perspectives. Some, like Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli and Alessandro Michele at Valentino, presented fantastical, costume-like creations, while others like Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel focused on wearability and a more poetic, natural approach. The shows explored the tension between couture as art versus couture as a tool for the lives of the wealthy elite, raising questions about the purpose and future of the storied fashion tradition.

Why it matters

Couture fashion is one of the last remnants of the old world hierarchy, with its specific occasions and protocols. As a new world of privilege asserts itself, couture remains a highly visible signifier of wealth and status. The diverse approaches showcased this season highlight the evolving role of couture, as designers grapple with its purpose and relevance in the modern era.

The details

At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry presented a collection inspired by a visit to the Sistine Chapel, featuring a bestiary of women transformed into snakes, scorpions, and birds. At Valentino, Alessandro Michele's second couture outing dispensed with theatricality in favor of a more cinematic perspective, blending Valentino archive references with nods to various design influences. Jonathan Anderson's Dior collection explored the tension between nature and artifice through sculptural, abstract forms. Meanwhile, Matthieu Blazy's debut couture collection for Chanel focused on wearability and a more natural, poetic approach, inspired by the lightness of a bird landing on a mushroom.

  • The Paris couture shows took place in January 2026.

The players

Daniel Roseberry

The creative director of Schiaparelli, known for his fantastical, costume-like couture designs.

Alessandro Michele

The creative director of Valentino, who presented a more cinematic and less theatrical couture collection this season.

Jonathan Anderson

The creative director of Dior, who explored the tension between nature and artifice through abstract, sculptural forms in his couture collection.

Matthieu Blazy

The new creative director of Chanel, who focused on wearability and a more natural, poetic approach in his debut couture collection for the storied house.

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What they’re saying

“This collection was born from a reflection on what couture represents: To me, the essence is a poetic exchange between the creator and the wearer; a dialogue that enhances the unique personality of each client.”

— Matthieu Blazy, Creative Director, Chanel

“Ideas can generate profit, and it is on ideas that I work.”

— Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director, Dior

The takeaway

The diverse approaches showcased in the latest Paris couture shows highlight the evolving role of haute couture, as designers grapple with its purpose and relevance in the modern era. From fantastical costume-making to a focus on wearability and poetic expression, the future of couture appears to be in flux, reflecting the broader shifts in the fashion industry and the changing demands of the wealthy elite.