Milan Fashion Week Delivers Dramatic Debuts and Polarizing Collections

From Demna's Gucci debut to Fendi's new vision, Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 sparked intense conversation.

Published on Mar. 2, 2026

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Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 was marked by highly anticipated designer debuts at major fashion houses like Gucci, Fendi, and Marni. While the collections sparked polarized reactions, the shows demonstrated Milan's ability to deliver creative, identity-driven fashion in a challenging retail climate.

Why it matters

The debuts at Milan Fashion Week highlighted the high stakes facing fashion houses as they navigate an unstable global market. Designers pushed bold visions to inspire consumers to invest in clothes, with varying degrees of success. The week showcased Milan's continued relevance as a fashion capital capable of generating buzz and debate.

The details

Demna's runway debut at Gucci, Fendi's new direction under Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Meryll Rogge's first show for Marni were among the highlights. Chiuri's Fendi collection featured a monochrome palette and tribute to the brand's founders, while Rogge aimed to return Marni to its codes of wearability and real-life dressing. Demna's Gucci show, held in a fake museum setting, received mixed reviews but generated significant attention.

  • Milan Fashion Week took place in early March 2026.
  • Fendi's show was held on Wednesday afternoon.
  • Marni's show was on Thursday evening.
  • Gucci's highly anticipated debut under Demna occurred during the week.

The players

Demna

The new creative director at Gucci, Kering's biggest brand and a key to the group's recovery after declining sales.

Maria Grazia Chiuri

The designer who made her debut at Fendi, paying tribute to the brand's five founding sisters.

Meryll Rogge

The designer who made her debut at Marni, aiming to return the brand to its codes of wearability and real-life dressing.

Tiziana Cardini

Vogue's fashion critic who commented on the strong and polarizing shows in Milan.

Carlo Capasa

The president of Camera della Moda Italiana, who praised the quality and substance of the Milan Fashion Week collections.

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What they’re saying

“It was a good moment in Milan. The shows were strong and had a point of view. They sparked a lot of conversation, because they were polarising and unexpected. It definitely was not a boring season.”

— Tiziana Cardini, Vogue Fashion Critic (Vogue)

“This edition of Milan Fashion Week has been particularly intense and significant. We have seen highly anticipated debuts, changes in creative direction that have brought great international attention to Milan, and a widespread quality that has run throughout the entire calendar.”

— Carlo Capasa, President of Camera della Moda Italiana (Vogue)

“It was important to bring the [brand] back to real life again. People were wearing Marni from day to night. It wasn't a brand for only special occasions. And so that's what we tried to do.”

— Meryll Rogge, Marni Designer (Vogue)

The takeaway

Milan Fashion Week demonstrated the industry's ability to deliver creative, identity-driven fashion in a challenging retail climate. The highly anticipated designer debuts at major houses sparked intense conversation, showcasing Milan's continued relevance as a fashion capital capable of generating buzz and debate.