Burnt Basque Cheesecake Recipe Tweaked by Chef Dave Beran Impresses Food Writer Ruth Reichl

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In a recent newsletter, renowned food writer Ruth Reichl discusses a conversation she had with Amiel Stanek, an editor at the online version of Gourmet Magazine. This led Reichl to reflect on the state of food journalism when she started out, including a speech she gave in the early 1990s on whether food writers should tackle environmental issues. Reichl then shares two recent Substack articles she found insightful, one on using bouillon products and another defending the use of canned tomatoes. She also mentions a food magazine fair happening in London. The main focus of the newsletter, however, is Reichl's praise for a version of the popular Burnt Basque Cheesecake made by chef Dave Beran, which Reichl calls "a revelation" and "far and away the best I've ever had." Reichl provides Beran's recipe, which includes some unique tweaks like using egg yolks, crème fraîche, and refrigerating the cake.

Why it matters

Reichl's newsletter provides insight into the evolving landscape of food journalism and the importance of innovation in classic recipes. Beran's tweaks to the Burnt Basque Cheesecake demonstrate how even a simple, popular dish can be elevated through experimentation and attention to detail. Reichl's endorsement of Beran's version is likely to drive increased interest and recipe sharing for this decadent dessert.

The details

According to Reichl, chef Dave Beran made several key changes to the traditional Burnt Basque Cheesecake recipe to create his acclaimed version. Beran uses egg yolks instead of whole eggs, crème fraîche instead of cream, and a food processor instead of a stand mixer to achieve a smoother texture. Importantly, Beran also refrigerates the cake, which causes it to "melt right before your eyes" when sliced and plated. Reichl notes that Beran spent 3 months perfecting this recipe.

• Reichl had a conversation with Amiel Stanek, an editor at Gourmet Magazine, a couple weeks ago.
• Reichl wrote an angry speech in the early 1990s when she was asked if food writers should tackle environmental issues.
• Reichl was hired as the Editor in Chief of Gourmet Magazine six years after giving the speech.
• Reichl tasted Nancy Silverton's version of the Burnt Basque Cheesecake at the Ojai Wine and Food Festival last week.
• Reichl says Dave Beran's recipe for the Burnt Basque Cheesecake is "all over the internet."

What they’re saying

What’s next

Reichl mentions that Beran's recipe for the Burnt Basque Cheesecake is widely available online, so readers can easily access and try the acclaimed version for themselves.