Bitter Greens and Creamy Beans: A Grown-Up Delight

Exploring the complex flavors of chicories, brassicas, and the perfect pairing of bitter and sweet

Apr. 15, 2026 at 9:57pm

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A brightly colored, high-contrast silkscreen print of a bowl of dark, leafy bitter greens and creamy white beans, repeated in a tight grid pattern with vibrant neon colors and heavy black outlines, conceptually representing the bold and dynamic flavors of this adult-oriented dish.A bold and graphic celebration of the complex flavors of bitter greens and creamy beans, a grown-up delight.Los Angeles Today

The author celebrates their love for bitter greens like radicchio, endive, and dandelion, and how they pair these strong, leafy vegetables with creamy beans for a dynamic and umami-rich dish. They also share a memory of discovering a delightful pineapple tart in a Parisian cafe, which provides the perfect sweet counterpoint to the bitter and savory main course.

Why it matters

This story highlights how adults can develop an appreciation for bold, bitter flavors that children often reject, and how pairing these greens with creamy beans creates a satisfying and complex meal. It also touches on the author's personal food memories and how they influence their cooking preferences, which many readers can relate to.

The details

The author discusses the chemical compounds that give bitter greens like chicories and brassicas their distinctive flavors, and how these evolved as natural defenses for the plants. They share a story about a neighbor from Mexico who would boil lettuce leaves to make a mild sedative for her babies. The author then describes their favorite ways of preparing bitter greens with beans, such as large, soft lima beans with dandelion greens or chickpeas with rapini. They also recall a memorable pineapple tart they had at a cafe in the Louvre, which provided a sweet contrast to the savory bean and greens dish.

  • Years ago, the author had the pineapple tart at a cafe in the Louvre in Paris.

The players

Laurie Colwin

A novelist and food writer who cautioned against serving rapini on a first date.

The author's neighbor from Sinaloa, Mexico

A woman who would boil lettuce leaves, cool and strain the liquid, then feed it to her babies to help them sleep.

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What they’re saying

“The marvelous novelist and food writer Laurie Colwin once cautioned against serving rapini on a first date.”

— Laurie Colwin, Novelist and food writer

The takeaway

This story celebrates the complex and grown-up pleasures of bitter greens, and how pairing them with creamy beans and the occasional sweet treat can create a dynamic and satisfying meal for adventurous eaters. It encourages readers to expand their palates and embrace bold, bitter flavors.