Fashion's "Denim Whisperer" Shares His Secrets

Benjamin Talley Smith on his new Madewell collection and what makes a "happy butt".

Published on Feb. 22, 2026

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Benjamin Talley Smith, a renowned denim consultant who has worked with numerous fashion brands, discusses his new limited-edition capsule collection with Madewell. He shares insights into his denim expertise, including tips for vintage denim shopping, achieving the perfect fit, and creating the elusive "happy butt" look.

Why it matters

Smith's extensive experience in the denim industry and his work with popular brands like Madewell provide valuable insights for fashion-conscious consumers who struggle to find the right pair of jeans. His tips and techniques can help demystify the denim shopping experience and empower people to feel more confident in their denim choices.

The details

Benjamin Talley Smith, often referred to as the "denim whisperer," has consulted on jeans for a wide range of fashion brands, from high-end labels like Khaite to more affordable options like Walmart. His new limited-edition capsule collection with Madewell features handcrafted, small-batch jeans made by artisans in Los Angeles. Smith emphasizes the importance of finding jeans that look and feel authentic, with a focus on craftsmanship and attention to detail. He shares his secrets for shopping for vintage denim, including a trick for determining the right waist size without trying on, and explains the technical aspects of achieving the elusive "happy butt" look, which involves carefully calibrating the placement of pockets, yokes, and waistbands.

  • Smith launched his limited-edition capsule collection with Madewell on February 18, 2026.

The players

Benjamin Talley Smith

A renowned denim consultant who has worked with numerous fashion brands, including Madewell, Khaite, Reformation, and Walmart, to develop their denim collections.

Madewell

An American clothing brand known for its iconic and timeless denim offerings, with which Smith has collaborated on a new limited-edition capsule collection.

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What they’re saying

“If fashion has a man behind the denim curtain—a wizard of jeans—he is it, a name that's passed from brand to brand, designer to designer, like a secret password.”

— Vanessa Friedman (The New York Times)

“When you think of jeans, Madewell is top of the list, and in a way that's for everybody. They are timeless and durable and look real, which, to me, is the most important thing in jeans.”

— Benjamin Talley Smith (substack.com)

“Don't be afraid to let it sit on your hip, even if you have to tie it with a handkerchief or roll the waistband. I love how teenagers do that: they wear the baggiest jeans ever because they're not afraid to hold them up with a shoelace or something. Lean into it. They're jeans. They're meant to be fun, right?”

— Benjamin Talley Smith (substack.com)

What’s next

Smith plans to continue working with Madewell and other fashion brands to develop innovative and authentic denim collections that cater to a wide range of consumers.

The takeaway

Benjamin Talley Smith's expertise in the denim industry and his focus on craftsmanship, authenticity, and the perfect fit offer valuable insights for fashion-conscious consumers who want to find the right pair of jeans that makes them feel confident and comfortable.